This week's
Drought Monitor map for Alabama is featuring some pretty colors, and that's not a good thing.
Yellow means abnormally dry and tan is moderate drought. My little slice of land hugging the Macon-Lee county line falls in "abnormally dry" but I know from my own rain gauge that I've had 3.6 inches of rain from July 1 to October 1, plus another 0.2 inches yesterday. Average precipitation for that same period of time is around 12.5 inches. I don't think "abnormally dry" is a suitable description of what is going on around here.
How, then, do I keep my garden going in these conditions? I have a few different tools in my arsenal.
Soaker Hoses
I love these things, unless of course I accidentally stab one with my garden spade fork. Snake and loop it around vegetable plants for a growing season, coil around new blackberry bush plantings to encourage root development, or wind around new rosebush plantings and landscape shrubs before putting down the mulch for multi-year irrigation options, lots of uses around here.
 |
| Soaker hose hook-up peeking out from under the hay mulch around the blackberry bushes. |
In the vegetable garden they work best for me when placed around bigger plants rather than rows. The hoses prefer to take on curving shapes rather than straight lines. It works pretty good to make serpentines around a row of broccoli plants or make a string of loops around tomato plants. This spring I wove it around my row of potato hills and buried it as I added compost and dirt to make the hills.
There is some necessary planning when trying to use these. My preferred brand comes in 25 and 50 foot lengths. Push-in metal garden or landscape pins are necessary to keep the hose anchored where you want.
Two big advantages for using this watering system. First, I can turn on the hose and walk away. When I was getting rosebush plantings established the last few springs I would come home from work, turn on the faucet, and turn it off before going to bed. The other advantage is that you don't have the evaporative or air loss as with sprinklers and other aerial watering. The hose slowly weeps out water which trickles to the ground or, in the case of plantings where the hose is buried under mulch, the water never really reaches a surface where it can evaporate. In other words, excellent water conservation.
The hardest thing for me about using these is that the hoses are 1/2 inch diameter, and so I have to hunt around a few stores to find a hose repair kit that small. Also, my hoses tend to have a life span of 2-3 years under the best of circumstances. Those that get moved around a lot tend to kink, and that's where the leaks usually start, sometimes in the first year. Those that stay put a while (rosebushes, transplanted trees) usually last a little longer but will weaken if exposed to the sun too long.
Sprinkler
Self explanatory, I hope.
Quick, minimal labor, and easily adaptable to water where needed. Also, stick a rain gauge in the ground and you will know fairly accurately how many inches of water you provide (I aim for 1-2 inches once a week if I go this route).
A couple of drawbacks. My beds are four feet wide with three feet of pathway between. So in the above picture, there is almost just as much square footage of non-growing space getting watered as the actual raised bed area. I try to reduce the waste by putting potted plants and hanging baskets in the walking areas while the sprinkler is running. The other concern is evaporative loss, as some of the water will not ever reach the ground. Evaporative loss is worse on dry, windy days and if watering in the middle of the day when the sun is hottest rather than early morning or evening.
Rain barrels and watering cans
Labor intensive, definitely. Water conserving, certainly.
My barrels are set up to catch rain water off the house roof. Usually a half-inch of rain is all that is needed to fill these three 50-gallon drums. There is a hose bib near the bottom of each barrel and a short hose that is just long enough to reach a watering can.
Three big benefits. First, I'm not paying the municipal water authority for this water as I do for anything that comes out of the faucet. Second, I can easily mix in fertilizer into the watering can as I fill it, not possible with the other methods. Third, I can specifically control which plants receive water and how much. So those super thirsty tomatoes would each get two cans of water whereas the smaller pepper plants would get one can per two-to-three plants.
***
Which one do I use? It depends. This afternoon I had all three going. The sprinkler was getting the raised beds, the rain barrels were used to fill the watering cans for plants outside the range of the sprinkler, and the rosebushes in the front yard (struggling in the drought) were benefiting from the soaker hose I put in three years ago at planting.